Mark ’n Mike’s “Big Fresser” platter includes four types of meat, Swiss cheese, bread, sides, dressings and dessert. (Photo/Hardy Wilson)
Mark ’n Mike’s “Big Fresser” platter includes four types of meat, Swiss cheese, bread, sides, dressings and dessert. (Photo/Hardy Wilson)

S.F.’s upscale One Market kicks off N.Y.-style deli pop-up

Food coverage is supported by a generous donation from Susan and Moses Libitzky.

Yet another Jewish food concept born out of the pandemic has debuted, this time at One Market restaurant in San Francisco. Called Mark ’n Mike’s: A New York Style Delicatessen, the pop-up is a project of One Market owner Michael Dellar and chef Mark Dommen.

Among the offerings are house-made pastrami sandwiches, matzah ball soup (the same soup the restaurant makes for every Jewish holiday) and Boichik Bagels, making One Market the first San Francisco restaurant to offer the Berkeley bagels.

Dellar grew up in Los Angeles, where he regularly ate at Nate ’n Al’s, the famous Beverly Hills deli, and in 2012 he launched a food truck in Napa called Pastranomy with two partners.

Dommen has been One Market’s chef since 2004. Prior to that, he lived and trained in New York, where he regularly ate at iconic Jewish spots such as Russ & Daughters and Zabar’s.

The idea of opening a deli with a fine-dining chef at the helm was brewing for many years.

“Mark and I have been fiddling around with this idea for a long time,” Dellar said. “Our goal is to bring the essence of New York deli food to San Francisco in a sophisticated yet accessible way.”

Other items include cold-smoked Bodega Bay salmon served on a Boichik bagel, a variety of sandwiches with pastrami, slow-cooked brisket and other cold cuts; potato salad and coleslaw as sides; and macaroons and rugelach for dessert. A “feed the family” platter called “The Big Fresser” features a half-pound of four different meats, a half-pound of Swiss cheese, rye and challah breads, a number of sides, deli mustard, Russian dressing and desserts, all for $125.

The deli pop-up is happening along with One Market’s to-go menu for delivery or pickup Wednesdays through Fridays during October; it may go longer depending on sales.

The other two pandemic-era Jewish food ventures, both of which have been written about here, are Schmaltz, a pop-up by chef Beth Needelman offered out of Trestle restaurant in San Francisco, of the Hi Neighbor Restaurant Group, and the Marvelous Matzah Experiment by chef Jeffrey Weinberg at JW Catering in Sunnyvale.

Alix Wall
Alix Wall

Alix Wall is a contributing editor to J. She is also the founder of the Illuminoshi: The Not-So-Secret Society of Bay Area Jewish Food Professionals and is writer/producer of a documentary-in-progress called "The Lonely Child."