There may be differences of opinion in how much onion or what type of potato to use, whether to use matzah meal or flour, but everyone agrees that latkes are best when consumed fresh, as soon as they leave the pan.
The latke cook does not have that luxury, and usually by the time he or she sits down to his plate, the latkes have become tepid and soggy. Here’s my solution: latke wedges.
They take liberty with the latkes’ traditional shape, but that does not compromise the taste and texture. Everyone, including the cook, gets to eat fresh, hot and crispy latkes. In fact, the children around my holiday table were delighted with what they now call “latke pie.”
Begin the festive meal with a seasonal, nutritious vegetable soup perfect for a chilly evening. Accompany the crispy latkes with a colorful salad of Belgian endive and sweet oranges. Let guests help themselves to toppings of tart applesauce or sour cream for the latkes.
Finish with an ethereal, low-fat almond ginger torte.
Harvest Minestrone
Serves 8
2 Tbs. olive oil
1 leek, white part only, thoroughly washed and thinly sliced
1 fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly sliced
1⁄2 lb. sliced mushrooms
1⁄2 small head green cabbage, shredded
2 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
4 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley
1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 parsnip, peeled and sliced
3 cups diced and peeled winter squash (butternut, acorn, Delicata, Buttercup)
6 cups vegetable stock
4 cups coarsely chopped spinach
1⁄2 cup orzo (rice-shaped pasta)
salt and pepper
In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat. Cook leek, fennel, mushrooms and cabbage until wilted, about 7 minutes. Stir in dill, parsley, sweet potato, parsnip, winter squash and stock and bring to a boil.
Reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes. Add spinach and orzo and cook another
8 minutes. Taste for salt and pepper and serve.
Potato Latke Wedges
Serves 8
4 russet potatoes, about 21⁄2 lbs.
2 medium onions
3 eggs, lightly beaten
4 Tbs. flour or matzah meal
1⁄2 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1 Tbs. salt
about 1⁄2 cup peanut or vegetable oil for frying
Peel and grate potatoes using large holes of grater or a food processor. Grate onions the same way. Place potatoes in large strainer and press out as much liquid as possible. In large bowl, combine potatoes and onions with eggs, flour, salt and pepper. Let mixture stand about 10 minutes.
Heat about 1⁄4 cup oil in two 12-inch nonstick skillets. When oil is hot, pour half potato mixture into each skillet and smooth each surface with spatula. Cook over medium heat about 8 minutes, pressing down with spatula every so often.
Slide each latke onto a large plate, invert back into skillet and cook another 8 minutes. Both sides should be brown and crispy. Cut each latke into 4 wedges. Serve with applesauce and/or sour cream.
Endive and Orange Salad
Serves 6-8
2 heads Belgian endive, cored and cut into fine shreds
4 cups watercress leaves (about 1 large bunch)
2 oranges, peel and sectioned
1 small red onion, diced
1⁄2 cup imported black olives, halved and pitted
3 Tbs. sherry or red wine vinegar
2 Tbs. walnut oil
1⁄4 cup olive oil
2 tsp. finely chopped parsley
salt and fresh pepper, to taste
In large bowl, mix endive, watercress, orange , onion and olives. In a small bowl, whisk vinegar, oils and parsley. Toss with salad and taste for salt and pepper.
Almond Ginger Torte
Serves 12
3 cups finely chopped almonds
11⁄2 cups sugar
1⁄2 cup flour
1⁄2 tsp. ground ginger
1⁄2 tsp. salt
10 eggs, separated
1⁄2 cup fresh orange juice
grated zest of 1 large orange
2 Tbs. finely chopped candied ginger
confectioners’ sugar for garnish
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Oil or spray a 10-inch tube pan. Combine nuts with 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, flour, ground ginger and salt.
Beat egg yolks and 1⁄2 cup of sugar until thick and pale, about 8 minutes. Stir in orange juice, zest and candied ginger. Fold nut mixture into yolk mixture with a spatula.
In a large bowl, beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in remaining 1⁄2 cup of sugar. Fold whites into yolk batter and pour into prepared pan.
Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Let cool in pan, then invert onto serving plate. Dust with confectioners’ sugar.
Louise Fiszer is a Palo Alto cooking teacher, author and the co-author of “Jewish Holiday Cooking.” Questions and recipe ideas can be sent to j. or to [email protected].