In 1958, Jennie Grossinger wrote, “No Jewish-style meal is complete without a soup.” It seems that no matter where Jews have landed, in the diaspora or in Israel, our cuisines all include delicious soups. With bread for dipping and sopping, soup is a complete meal.

As Thanksgiving approaches, we’re often looking for interesting and seasonal soup recipes to begin our meal, as well as looking for lighter meals to sustain larger, less formal meals throughout the long weekend.

North African soups are redolent of spices, while Ashkenazi soups are flavored with chicken stock and dried mushrooms. With cold weather on its way, more of our time will be spent indoors, where the aroma of warm soup welcomes hungry visitors.

North African Pumpkin Soup

Serves 8-10

3 Tbs. olive oil

1 onion, sliced

11⁄2 lbs. peeled pumpkin cubes (or other winter squash)

11⁄2 tsp. ground cumin

1 tsp. ground coriander

1⁄4 tsp. ground cardamom seeds

1⁄2 tsp. ground cinnamon

1 tsp. turmeric

1 tsp. harissa (or other hot sauce)

1 Tbs. grated ginger

1 tsp. fine sea salt

8 cups vegetable or chicken stock

3 Tbs. chopped cilantro leaves

Heat the olive oil in a soup pot, add the onion and pumpkin, and cook over moderate heat for 5 or 6 minutes, stirring as needed.

Add the spices to the onion and squash, along with the hot sauce, ginger, salt and 1⁄2 cup of the stock. Continue to cook over medium heat for 5 minutes.

Add the rest of the stock and bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the pumpkin is soft. Puree the soup through a coarse sieve, food processor or blender. Return the soup to the pot, and taste for seasoning, adding more salt if necessary. Serve warm and garnish each serving with cilantro.

Mushroom Barley Soup

Serves 8-10

4 Tbs. olive oil

2 stalks celery, sliced

1 onion, sliced

2 carrots, sliced

6 cups water

2 tsp. coarse sea salt

1 oz. dried mushrooms, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes, rinsed and drained

1 cup barley

1⁄2 cup sour cream

Heat the olive oil in a soup pot and sauté the celery, onion and carrots until the onion begins to brown. Add the water and salt and bring to a boil. Drop in the mushrooms and the barley. Bring to a simmer, and continue to cook until the barley is tender, about 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm, with a dollop of sour cream.

Spinach Soup

Serves 8-10

6 Tbs. unsalted butter

6 Tbs. flour

2 tsp. sweet paprika

2 cloves garlic, chopped

6 cups milk

2 tsp. fine sea salt

1⁄2 tsp. pepper

1 lb. chopped spinach leaves

Melt the butter in a soup pot over a medium flame. Add the flour, paprika and garlic, stirring well. Gradually add the milk, whisking constantly. Continue stirring until the milk is thickened and creamy. Add the salt and pepper. Over low heat, stir in the spinach. Simmer gently until the spinach is wilted. Serve warm.

Rebecca Ets-Hokin is a certified culinary professional. Visit her Web site at www.GoRebecca.com. She can be reached at [email protected].

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