For grooms in 2001, an updated tuxedo

Out with the old, in with the new is the mantra of the new generation of grooms who want to look as fashionable as the bride on their wedding day. No more boring tuxedos for them.

"Men really don't want to look like penguins anymore," says Bob Bennett, president of the Men's Apparel Group, manufacturer of After Six, Oscar de la Renta and Raffinati formalwear. "Grooms today want to look elegant but not wear a basic tuxedo. They want original style that sets them apart from everyone else."

Bennett's team of designers keeps up with changing trends in formalwear, providing over 70 percent of the tuxedos for rental and retail markets in this country.

"Men are more interested in fashion now than they ever have been," he says. "They do not want to look like their fathers or grandfathers, and they certainly do not want to look like the well-dressed waiter. Even if they prefer something more traditional, they want it to have a twist."

One of the most popular collections in the Men's Apparel Group is the Nuvo line from After Six. These tuxedos feature a triple-pleated silk lapel and slightly longer jackets that can be accented with colorful vests.

"Vests are extremely popular now," says Bennett, noting that they are taking the place of the traditional cummerbund.

"The cummerbund has almost completely died off," he says, "and for good reason. Who wants to wear something that draws attention to that part of your body?"

The newest vests for grooms may feature multicolored swirl patterns or monochromatic diamonds with matching solid-color ties -- all chosen to complement the wedding party's attire. Four-in-hand ties (traditional, longer ties) are also taking the place of bow ties, according to Bennett, and look especially dapper with coordinating vests.

"Once the celebrities all started showing up on the awards shows wearing the longer ties, then everyone wanted that look," he says.

In Oscar de la Renta's new Oscar Formal collection, the new trend in longer jackets and bold monochromatic looks sets the new fashion standard for grooms and their groomsmen. The line features a seven-button, three-quarter jacket made of silk and wool in a new graphite gray with a black satin spread collar that is a standout new style when accented by a black four-in-hand tie. A three-button version of the jacket also is available. It allows the groomsmen to complement the groom who chooses to wear the seven-button jacket.

An even more trendy look for the groom is included in After Six's Downtown collection with a seven-button, three-quarter jacket that is very form fitting and is appropriately named "Extreme." Another fashion-forward tuxedo, "Sly" features the fly-front closure with no buttons showing. Both these tuxedos can be complemented with traditional accessories or with silver lay-down collared shirts and matching four-in-hand ties.

While black continues to be the most popular color in men's formalwear, according to Bennett, new grays are becoming a top choice, especially for the men's wedding party.

"The groom may choose to wear black," says Bennett, "and suit up the rest of his groomsmen in gray. Or the groom may wear gray and put his groomsmen in black."

For spring and summer 2001, Bennett predicts white will be a major fashion statement for formal events. After Six features a sophisticated white tuxedo in its Nuvo collection, the Nuvo Larga, in a three-quarter-length coat with one button and triple-pleated satin lapels complemented with a monochromatic vest and four-in-one tie over a wingtip collar shirt.

But comfort is the bottom line, no matter what the groom is wearing, concludes Bennett.

"Every man wants to look tall and slender," he says, "but fit is very important to comfort, especially on such an important day."